the kingdom of naples , the venetian republic , the ottoman empire , the french , british and , during the second world war , the italians and germans have all left their mark .
fortunately , the present settlers - the greeks themselves and the odd expat - have stoutly resisted the encroachment of mass tourism .
so instead of fast-food restaurants you will find charming tavernas that make this island a foodie heaven .
great forests of pines , cypress and cedars still sweep down the steep hillsides , often ending in cliffs of chalk as white as those at dover .